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1. (WO2019002374) SOLID CLEANING COSMETIC COMPOSITION
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Solid cleaning cosmetic composition

This invention relates to a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition and a method of using said composition.

It is known that compositions in the form of cream, gels and liquid formulas can be used in the field of skin hygiene and/or cleaning products. Such formulas are usually packaged in flasks or other packagings that occupy a certain volume, and therefore have significant dimensions. Furthermore, due their liquid or semi-liquid texture, these compositions can partly escape from their packaging, particularly during transport, that causes leaks.

One alternative to this type of composition lies in the use of soap bars. They are in solid form and they have a small volume. However, once again, these formulas are not easy to transport once they have been used because they are wet.

Therefore there is a need for compositions, particularly hygiene and/or cleaning compositions that are easy to apply, easy to transport, lightweight and with no risk of leak. Such compositions must also require the use of a minimum quantity of water.

This invention responds to this need. It discloses a solid anhydrous solution that has a small volume, uses a small quantity of water and has no risk of leaks. In particular, such a composition is in the form of a tablet. It is easy to transport, lightweight and can be used to make a well-measured amount of product for the consumer.

Therefore the purpose of this invention is a solid anhydrous composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising:

- at least 70% by weight of microcrystalline cellulose as a proportion of the total weight of the composition;

- at least one surfactant chosen from among isethionic derivatives and their cosmetically acceptable salts; and

- at least one surfactant chosen from among acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

Optionally, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lubricant.

This invention also relates to a method of preparing such a composition, including a mixture of microcrystalline cellulose with a surfactant chosen from among isethionic acid derivatives and their cosmetically acceptable salts, at least one surfactant chosen from among acyl glutamic acid derivatives and their cosmetically acceptable salts, and possibly at least one lubricant; then compression of the mix obtained.

Another purpose of this invention is a method of cleaning keratin materials (cosmetic process), preferably the skin and/or the hair, in which the solid anhydrous composition according to the invention is brought into contact with keratin materials, then rinsing, particularly with water.

In this description, the expression "at least" is equivalent to the expression "one or several" and can be substituted for it.

In this description, the expression "included between" is equivalent to the expression "from ... to" and can be substituted for it.

"Keratin materials" means the skin, the mucous membranes and/or skin appendages, and preferably the skin and/or hair.

The composition according to the invention is solid. "Solid" means a composition that does not flow under its own weight. The composition according to the invention may be in any solid galenic form, and particularly in the form of a tablet, lozenge, pellet or granule. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of tablet.

The composition according to the invention is anhydrous. "Anhydrous" means that the composition contains less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1 % and ideally contains no water at all

During use, the anhydrous solution according to the invention typically dissolves rapidly in contact with water. Preferably, it forms a foam. It thus forms a solid hygiene product that is practical and easy to transport, with no risk of leak and with a small volume.

As demonstrated in the examples, the composition according to the invention has an innovative galenic form, and the different ingredients play an important role in this galenic form.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains no bicarbonate, and particularly no sodium bicarbonate. The solid anhydrous composition according to the invention dissolves in contact with water and can foam, but without effervescence.

Microcrystalline cellulose

Compositions conforming with the invention comprise at least 70% by weight of microcrystalline cellulose as a proportion of the total weight of the composition.

The microcrystalline cellulose is generally prepared from wood pulp: said pump is cut into small particles that are chemically hydrolyzed, particularly with an inorganic acid, and a filtration and drying step then takes place.

The microcrystalline cellulose may particularly be that marketed by FMC Biopolymers under the name Avicel PH 102 or Avicel PH 105.

Preferably, the particle size of the microcrystalline cellulose is defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 80 to 140 μηι. It is preferably that marketed by FMC Biopolymers under the name Avicel PH 102.

Preferably, the content of microcrystalline cellulose is between 70% and 95% by weight, particularly from 72% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 75% to 85% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

Isethionate surfactant

Compositions according to the invention comprise at least one surfactant chosen from among isethionic acid derivatives and their cosmetically acceptable salts. This surfactant is also called an "isethionate surfactant" in this application.

The salt or derivative of isethionic acid may for example be chosen among acyl isethionic acids, their salts (isethionates) and mixtures thereof. Preferably, it is chosen from among acyl isethionic acid salts for which the hydrocarbon chain R of the acyl group RC=0 is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 1 to 20 carbon atoms. The acyl group can be in particular chosen from the lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl, oleoyl groups, and mixtures thereof.

"Cosmetically acceptable salts" means that the hydrogen atom in the S03H group of the isethionic acid is replaced by a cation X, for example chosen from among alkali metal ions such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K; ions of alkali earth metals such as Mg; the ammonium groups; and mixtures thereof.

In particular, mention may be made of the formula (I):

R-C(=0)-C(R2)(R3)-C(R4)(R5)-S03X (I)

in which R and X have the same meaning as above, and X may also be H+, and R1 , R2, R3 and R4 are independently a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

For example, mention may be made of compounds with the INCI name sodium cocoyi isethionate, for example products marketed with the name Hostapon SCI and Hostapon STCI by Clariant, and particularly the following compounds: Hostapon SCI-78 C, Hostapon SCI-85 C, Hostapon SCI-78 P, Hostapon STCI-85 C, Hostapon STCI-85 G or Hostapon STCI-85 P; also compounds marketed under the Elfan name by Akzo, particularly such as Elfan AT 84 G, Elfan AT 84 or Elfan AT 90 G.

Mention may also be made of ammonium cocoyi isethionate, for example that marketed by BASF under the name Jordapon ACI-30.

For example, mention may be made of commercial mixtures containing sodium cocoyi isethionate like mixtures marketed by Clariant under the name Hostapon SCI-65C, Hostapon SCI-40 L and Hostapon STCI-65 C, or Biobase SMC by Tri-K industries, and Jordapon CI 65 by BASF.

Preferably, the isethionate surfactant is sodium cocoyi isethionate.

Preferably, the content of isethionate surfactant is between 2% and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 2.5% and 15% by weight, preferably between 3% and 10% by weight.

Glutamate surfactant

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from among acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts. This surfactant is also called a "glutamate surfactant" in this application.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid with at least one C12-C22 acyl chain, its salt (glutamate), or mixtures thereof. In particular, the glutamate surfactant is chosen from among acyl glutamic acids with a C12-C22 acyl chain, alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, alkali earth metal salts such as Mg, ammonium salts of said acids and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid), its salts (glutamates) and mixtures thereof, are chosen from among lauroyl glutamic, myristoyl glutamic, palmitoyl glutamic, stearoyl glutamic, behenoyl glutamic, olivoyl glutamic, cocoyl glutamic acids and alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, alkali earth metal salts such as Mg, ammonium salts of said acids and mixtures thereof.

In particular, mention can be made of compounds with the INCI name lauroyl glutamic acid (particularly sodium lauroyl glutamic acid), cocoyl glutamic acid, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof. Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by AJINOMOTO and particularly references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 1 1 PF, Amisoft MK-1 1 , Amisoft LK-1 1 , Amisoft CK-1 1 , or marketed by Keminova Italiana SRL.

Acyl glutamic acid salts include disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate as marketed under reference Amisoft HS5 21 by AJINOMOTO. Mention can also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one acyl glutamic salt, for example a mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 marketed by AJINOMOTO.

According to one particular embodiment, the mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid is used, and most particularly that marketed by AJINOMOTO as reference Amisoft HS 1 1 (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate), or the mono-sodium salt of n-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid is used, and most particularly that marketed by AJINOMOTO as reference Amisoft LS 1 1 (INCI name: sodium lauroyl glutamate).

Preferably, the content of glutamate surfactant is between 0.1 % and 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 % and 25% by weight, preferably between 5% and 15% by weight.

Preferably, the total content of surfactant is between 5% and 35% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 10% and 30% by weight.

Lubricant

The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one lubricant. Such a lubricant can in particular play a role as anti-caking compound.

Among lubricants that can be used in compositions according to the invention, mention can be made of silica, particularly anhydrous colloidal silica, kaolin, starch, mica, talc, sericite, polyamide (Nylon®), poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), acrylate and dimethicone copolymers, sodium carbonate, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, stearic acid, polyethylene glycol, metal soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the lubricant is a metal soap derived from carboxylic organic acid with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate. Preferably, the lubricant is magnesium stearate.

A composition implemented according to the invention may comprise one or more lubricants with a content ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, particularly from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 5% with respect to the weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises:

- at least 70% by weight of microcrystalline cellulose as a proportion of the total weight of the composition;

- at least one isethionate surfactant;

- at least one glutamate surfactant; and

- possibly, at least one lubricant.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, preferably consists of, the following, by weight as a ratio of the total weight of the composition:

- from 70% to 95% of microcrystalline cellulose;

- from 2 to 10% of at least one isethionate surfactant;

- from 5% to 20% of at least one glutamate surfactant; and

- possibly from 1 % to 10% of at least one lubricant.

Binding agents

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one liquid binding agent chosen from among the polyols such as glycerol, 1 ,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8 or dipropylene glycol, or preferably a solid binder.

In the framework of the invention, the solid binding agent(s) may be chosen from among:

- sugars such as mannitol, maltodextrin, sorbitol, xylitol, sucrose, glucose,

- cellulose derivatives,

polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP),

- starches,

- gums such as gum arabic, xanthan gum or carrageenans,

and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to this invention comprises at least one binder chosen from among starches, PVP, sugars (such as mannitol, sorbitol or sucrose), cellulose derivatives (such as carboxymethylcellulose) and gums (such as xanthan gum or gum arabic).

The composition according to the invention may comprise different additives, such as dyes, active constituents and particularly additives that are hydrophobic or sensitive to water (for example retinol or anti-dandruff agents), and/or preservatives. Preferably, the composition according to the invention has no preservative.

Another purpose of this invention is a method of preparing such a composition, including the mix of microcrystalline cellulose with at least one surfactant chosen from among isothionic acid derivatives and their cosmetically acceptable salts, at least one surfactant chosen from among acyl glutamic acid derivatives and their cosmetically acceptable salts, and possibly at least one lubricant; then compression of the mix obtained.

In particular, the mixing step may be performed using a high shear mixer granulator such as those made by Lodige, Backer-Perkins, Bosch, Amixon, Promixon or Glatt brands; a plough mixer such as those made by Loedige, Zeppelin or Promixon; a screw mixer such as those sold by Amixon, Parimix or Hosokawa; or a tumbler mixer such as those from Bachilla or Servolift. Preferably, a high shear mixer granulator or a plough mixer will be used such as those made by Loedige or Backer-Perkins.

In particular, it is done at ambient temperature.

The compression step of the mix obtained can be done using a press, particularly a tablet press.

Such a process is illustrated in the examples.

Finally, one purpose of this invention is a method of cleaning keratin materials, preferably the skin and/or the hair, in which the solid anhydrous composition according to the invention is brought into contact with keratin materials, then rinsing, particularly with water.

The invention can be better understood with reference to the non-limitative examples given below that constitute preferred methods of implementing the method according to the invention.

Unless mentioned otherwise, quantities in the following examples are expressed as a percent by weight.

Example 1 :

1 .1 . The following compositions are prepared:

The different ingredients in each composition are mixed in a Backer 1 L mixer granulator, with the following operating conditions:



The above tables show that at the end of mixing, only the composition according to the invention produces a fine homogeneous powder with no caking and that flows well.

The compositions are then compressed using a Dott Bonapace CPR-6 tablet press with an identical punch lowering distance and force, the compression rate also being identical. The height of the bottom punch is adjusted by turning the adjustment screw by 8 half-turns, starting from the lowest possible level. Lowering of the top punch is set to level 5.3. The automatic speed is set to 3, namely compression of 750 tablets/hour.

The compression conditions are as follows:


1 .2. Evaluation of the prepared compositions

One tablet of each composition is taken in the hand.

Then in contact with water:

- the composition according to the invention (tablet) starts to disintegrate. It can then easily be crushed by friction; all that remains to be done is to rub your hands to create a foam;

- comparative composition A (tablet) disintegrates a little. After applying friction in the hand several times, the tablet does not dissolve; and

- comparative composition B (tablet) does not disintegrate. After applying friction in the hand several times, the tablet does not dissolve at all; and no foam is formed. Therefore the composition according to the invention is the only composition that disintegrates in contact with water.

Example 2: Evaluation of the quantity of microcrvstalline cellulose

2.1 . The following compositions are prepared:

Alternative composition

Composition Comparative according to the

Raw materials according to the composition C invention

invention

Sodium Lauroyl

Glutamate 10.00% 10.00% 10.00% (Amisoft LS 1 1 )

The different ingredients in each composition are mixed in a Backer 1 L mixer granulator, with the operating conditions used in example 1 :

The compositions are then compressed using a Dott Bonapace CPR-6 tablet press with 15 mm diameter punches. The height of the bottom punch is adjusted by turning the adjustment screw by 8 half-turns, starting from the lowest possible level. Lowering of the top punch is set to level 3 and the automatic speed is set to 10, namely 2500 tablets/hour. The following densities are obtained:

Evaluation of the prepared compositions

One tablet of each composition is taken in the hand.

Then in contact with water:

- the composition according to the invention (tablet) starts to disintegrate. After applying friction in the hand several times, the tablet dissolves easily;

- the alternative composition according to the invention (tablet) starts to disintegrate.

After applying friction in the hand several times, the tablet dissolves easily; and

- comparative composition C (tablet) disintegrates very little. It is very difficult to crumble; a residue remains.

Therefore the only compositions that disintegrate in contact with water are the two compositions according to the invention (with a microcrystalline cellulose content of 81 % and 76% by weight).

Example 3: Evaluation of the nature of surfactants

3.1 . The following compositions are prepared:

The different ingredients in each composition are mixed in a Backer 1 L mixer granulator, with the operating conditions used in example 1 .

3.2. Evaluation of the prepared compositions

One tablet of each composition is taken in the hand.

Then in contact with water:

- the composition according to the invention (tablet) starts to disintegrate. After applying friction in the hand several times, the tablet dissolves easily;

- the comparative composition D (tablet) disintegrates quickly in contact with water.

From a cosmetic point of view, the sarcosinate is not as rough as the glutamate. However, it is friable; and

- the comparative composition E (tablet) disintegrates It is very difficult to crumble; a residue remains.

Therefore the composition according to the invention, that includes the combination of an isethionate surfactant and a glutamate surfactant is the only one that disintegrates in contact with water.

Example 4: Evaluation of the nature of disintegrating agents

4.1 . The following compositions are prepared:


The different ingredients in each composition are mixed in a Backer 1 L mixer granulator, with the operating conditions used in example 1 .

Evaluation of the prepared compositions

Composition

Comparative Comparative Comparative according to

composition F composition G composition H the invention

The product sticks to

the punches. There are

The powder is very fine,

some blisters on the

it has very good The powder does tablets. Degassing

flowability but does not not compress at all, occurs when the flask

compress well. There is a there is no

The pellets containing the pellets is

"capping" phenomenon. cohesion, the tests form well opened! Effervescence

The tablet is fragile and are stopped. The has begun.

breaks when it drops into tablet is crushed At the time of

the tank (even with foam with one finger. compression, the state

to dampen it).

of the citric acid

changes.

Conclusion

The above results show that at least 70% of microcrystalline cellulose is necessary for fast crumbling. Use of the isethionate surfactant such as sodium cocoyi isethionate as the cohesion agent is more appropriate than gum arabic because the tablet crumbles more quickly forming a foam.

The anhydrous solid compositions according to the invention dissolve quickly in the hand and are capable of foaming. Therefore they form good cleaning products. Furthermore, they can be obtained by direct compression of the mixed ingredients.