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1. WO1997023198 - A COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND A METHOD FOR REDUCING THE AGEING PROCESSES OF SKIN

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A cosmetic composition and a method for reducing the ageing processes of skin

The invention refers to a cosmetic composition and a method for reducing the ageing processes of skin and/or treating the pathological lesions of skin.
More specifically, the invention refers to a cosmetic composition comprising a hydroximic acid derivative of the formula


wherein
R represents a hydrogen atom or a C, _ c alkyl group,
2
R stands for a hydrogen atom, a C,_5 alkyl group, a C3 β cycloalkyl group or a phenyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxy or a phenyl group, or
R 1 and R2 together with the nitrogen atom they are attached to form a 5 to 8 membered ring optionally containing one or more further nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur atom(s) and said ring can be condensed with another alicyclic or heterocyclic ring, preferably a benzene, naphthalene, quinoline, isoquinoline, pyridine or pyrazoline ring, furthermore, if desired and chemically possible, the nitrogen and/or sulfur heteroato ( s ) are present in the form of an oxide or dioxide,
R means a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a naphthyl group or a pyridyl group wherein said groups can be susbtituted by one or more halo atom(s) or C, . alkoxy
group(s) ,
Y is a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, a C, _. alkoxy group optionally substituted by an amino group, a C? _4 polyalkenyloxy group containing 1 to 6 double bond(s), a C 1, — Δ_Dc alkanoyl group, a C 3-.~ n2 alk -.enoyl group or a group of the formula R -C00- wherein R represents a C_ -.0 polyalkenyl group containing 1 to 6 double bond(s), X stands for a halo atom, an amino group, a C, _. alkoxy group, or
X forms with B an oxygen atom, or
X and Y together with the carbon atoms they are attached to and the -NR-0-CH_- group being between said carbon atoms form a ring of the formula


wherein
Z represents an oxygen atom or a nitrogen atom,
R stands for a hydrogen atom or
R forms with B a chemical bond,
A is a C, . alkylene group or a chemical
bond or a group of the formula


wherein
4
R represents a hydrogen atom, a C, _
alkyl group, a C3_Q cycloalkyl group
or a phenyl group optionally substituted by a halo atom, a C, . alkoxy group
or a C, 5 alkyl group,
R5 stands for a hydrogen atom, a C,
alkyl group or a phenyl group,
has a value of 0, 1 or 2 ,
n has a value of 0, 1 or 2 ,
or a physiologically acceptable acid addition salt thereof as the active ingredient.
The human skin is a natural target of light radiation having several known pleasant and unpleasant effects such as sunburn and carcinogenesis. Due to the ultraviolet
radiation, free radicals (for example hydroxy -4- radicals or nascent oxygen) form in the skin. Such free radicals can injure the DNA and contribute to the ageing of the skin.
A well-known theory of the ageing process of skin is based on the deteriorating effect of free radicals. In addition to the effect of ultraviolet radiation, free radicals may also form in biochemical processes. Thus, due to e.g. inflammation, hypoxia or reactive hyperaemia, free radicals of oxygen origin such as superoxide anion, perhydroxy or hydroxy radical, hydrogen peroxide etc. may form.
Free radicals having powerful oxidizing effect can injure the membrane by oxidizing the unsaturated fatty acid components of the membrane (peroxidization of lipids) on the one hand, and reactive aldehydes are formed during the oxidization on the other hand. In the injury of membrane, the increased intake of calcium leads to cell death, and pathological processes are started due to the presence of the reactive aldehydes:
- injury of DNA, mutation in both the cell nucleus and mitochondrium;
- change in the properties of the interstitial proteins (i.e. elastin) owing to formation of crosslinks.
It is known that the elastic structures of collagen proteins and elastin contain a lot of water. It is characteristic of the interstitial proteins that they are rich in lysine. The reactive aldehydes such as malondialdehyde give condensation reaction with the side chains containing amino groups to yield crosslinks. Thus, the originally elastic structure becomes rigid and
hydrophobic. During the above process, at first lipofuscin ceroids, then age pigments are formed.
The natural protective mechanisms against ultraviolet radiation include bronzing due to the formation of melanin, DNA repair mechanism etc. The deficiency of a protective mechanism such as the damage of the DNA repair and consequently the loss of the correction of the DNA injuries caused by the ultraviolet rays leads to the early ageing of skin or perhaps to a disease called xeroderma
pigmentosum that can be accompanied by the development of a malignant tumor. Sunburn spots caused by bronzing in the early
childhood are healed leaving an extended scar. In addition to spinocellular carcinoma, various malignant tumors (e.g. melanoma, cerato-acanthoma, basalioma, sarcoma) can develop.
Thus, it is of great significance if the ageing processes of skin could be
influenced and the pathological lesions could be treated.
The hydroximic acid derivatives of the formula I are known. HU-P No. 177 578 and its equivalent US-P No. 4,308,399 describe hydroximic acid derivatives within the compounds of the formula I suitable for the treatment of diabetic angiopathy.
HU-P No. 207 988 and its equivalent E-P No. 417 210 also describe hydroximic acid halides within the formula I having a selective beta-blocking effect, thus, being suitable for the treatment of diabetic angiopathy.
HU-P Application No. 2385/92 published under No. T/66350 describes further hydroximic acid derivatives within the formula I. These known compounds can be used in the treatment of vascular deformations, mainly in the therapy of diabetes mellitus.
The aim of the invention is to provide a composition suitable for reducing the ageing processes of skin and/or treating the
pathological lesions of skin.
It was found that the above aim is fulfilled by a composition comprising a hydroximic acid derivative of the formula I or a physiologically acceptable acid
addition salt thereof as the active
ingredient.
Under the pathological lesions of skin for which the composition of the invention is suitable, especially the followings are meant:
- dry skin;
- actinic keratosis, aktinic prurigo (Lopez-Gonzalez's disease);

- polymorphic light exanthema;
- toxic photopathy;
- photo-allergy;
- purpura senilis;
- solar atrophy of skin;
- puberal strias (stria migrans);
- elastoma diffusum (old skin);
- X-ray dermatitis;
- gouty polychondritis;
- decubitus (bedsore).
In the description and Claims, under the term "composition" a cosmetic composition, or a medical cosmetic composition or a
pharmaceutical composition is meant which is suitable, in the first place, for local treatment, and is applied to the skin surface in a conventional manner.
The composition of the invention
comprises a hydroximic acid derivative of the formula I or a physiologically acceptable acid addition salt thereof as the active ingredient in admixture with one or more conventional carrier(s) of cosmetic
compositions .
In the specification and Claims, a
C, 5 alkyl group is, for example, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl or n--pentyl group, preferably a methyl or an ethyl group.
A C3 8 cycloa*LkY-'* group is, for example, a cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cyclo-heptyl or cyclooctyl group, preferably a cyclopentyl or a cyclohexyl group.
A 5 to 8 membered ring containing one or more heteroatom ( s) can be, for example, a pyrrole, pyrazole, imidazole, oxazole, thiazole, pyridine, pyridazine, pyrimidine, piperazine, morpholine, indole, quinoline etc. ring.
A C, _4 alkoxy group is, for example, a methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, tert . -butoxy, n-pentoxy, decyloxy, dodecyloxy, octadecyloxy etc. group.
A C, _,. alkanoyl group is, for example, a formyl, acetyl, propionyl, butiryl, caproyl, palmityl, stearyl etc. group.
A C-. Q alkenoyl group is, for example, an acryloyl, pentenoyl, hexenoyl, heptenoyl, octenoyl etc. group.
A C, 4 alkylene group is, for example, a methylene, ethylene, propylene or butylene group.
A halo atom is, for example, a fluoro, chloro, bromo or iodo atom, preferably a chloro or a bromo atom.
If Y stands for a group of the formula 7
R -COO- , it can represent, for example, a linolenoyl, linoloyl, docosahexanoyl , eicosa-pentanoyl, arachidonoyl etc. group.
The physiologically acceptable acid addition salts of the compounds of the formula

I are the acid addition salts formed with physiologically acceptable inorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid etc. or with physiologically acceptable organic acids such as acetic acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid etc.
A preferred subgroup of the compounds of the formula I consists of the hydroximic acid derivatives of the formula


wherein R 1 , R2 , R3 , R4 , R5 , m and n are as stated in relation to formula I, X represents a halo atom or an amino group, Y means a hydroxy group.
Especially preferred compounds of the formula II are those wherein R 1 and R2
together with the nitrogen atom they are attached to form a piperidino group, R stands for a pyridyl group, m and n have a value of 0, X is as defined above. Of these
compounds, preferred species are as follows:

0-(3-piperidino-2-hydroxy-l-propyl )pyrid- -3-ylhydroximic acid chloride (Compound "A") and
0- ( 3-piperidino-2-hydroxy-l-propyl )nicotinic amidoxime (Compound "B").

A further preferred subgroup of the hydroximic acid derivatives of the formula I consists of the compounds of the formula


wherein R 1 , R2 , R3 and A are as stated in relation to formula I.
Another preferred subgroup of the hydroximic acid derivatives of the formula

I consists of the compounds of the formula


wherein R 1 , R2 , R3 and A are as stated in relation to formula I, Z represents an oxygen or a nitrogen atom.
A still further preferred subgroup of the hydroximic acid derivatives of the formula

I consists of the compounds of the formula


wherein R 1 , R2 , R3 and A are as stated in relation to formula I, R stands for a
C, . alkyl group.
The compounds of the formula I can be prepared by the processes known from HU-P

Nos. 177 578 and 207 988 as well as from

HU-P Application published under No. T/66350.

The composition of the invention
contains, in general, 0.1 to 30 % by mass, suitably 2 to 10 % by mass, preferably 4 to 5 % by mass of a hydroximic acid derivative of the formula I or a physiologically
acceptable acid addition salt thereof as the active ingredient and conventional
carrier(s) of the cosmetic compositions.
The compositions of the invention can be conventional cosmetic formulations suitable for the local treatment of the skin surface.

Preferred formulations are creams, body emulsions, sun-emulsions, skin treatment foams, sprays, skin regenerating ampouls etc.
The compositions of the invention may contain, in addition to the active ingredient, the conventional carriers of cosmetic
compositions generally in an amount of 70 to 99.9 % by mass. Suitable carriers are, for example, one- or two-basic alcohols having a saturated or an unsaturated carbon chain such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl- stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, lauryl
alcohol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol; natural fats and oils such as olive oil, avocado oil, wheat-germ oil, maize-germ oil, lanolin, cocoa-butter; higher hydrocarbons such as vaseline oil, vaseline; bee- wax; cellulose derivatives; emulgators such as sodium lauryl sulfate, fatty acid or oleic acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid or oleic acid esters of poly (ethylene glycol )s,
sorbitan ethers of fatty alcohols or oleic alcohols, poly(ethylene glycol) ethers of fatty alcohols or oleic alcohols, glycerides of fatty acids; vitamins, herb extracts such as camomile extract; preservatives such as methyl p-hydroxy- benzoate, chlorohexidine gluconate; light protecting factors etc.
The compositions of the invention are prepared by blending the ingredients thereof, in a manner known per se. In case of
compositions based on a water/oil or oil/water emulsion, in general, the ingredients of the fatty phase and those of the aqueous phase are separately admixed, then the two phases are blended using a fatty phase of elevated temperature, if required. The active ingredient of the formula I is added, preferably in an aqueous solution, to the fatty phase or to the mixture of the other ingredients.
The skin ageing inhibition effect of the compounds of the formula I was examined on guinea-pigs. The skin surface of 8 guinea- pigs was depilated, then, on both sides of
2
the animals 1 cm areas were irradiated by
2
UV-B light of 100 mJ/cm intensity. After the irradiation, one side of the animals was covered with the cream of Example 1 comprising 4 % by mass of compound "A" as the active ingredient. The other side of each animal was covered with a mixture of cosmetic carriers comprising no active ingredient (i.e. a cream corresponding to that of Example 1 was used, however, said cream contained water instead of the active ingredient, too). Thus, as a matter of fact, an internal control was used in the
experiment.
In case of 4 animals, the treatment with the cream was performed immediately after the irradiation, then the treatment was repeated daily for a week (group I).
In case of the other 4 animals, the skin surface irradiated was treated with the cream of the invention and the control cream, respectively, only 24 hours after the
irradiation (group II).
In case of animals of group I, a minimal erythema could be observed on the skin surface irradiated and treated with the composition of the invention 24 and 48 hours after the irradiation. On the skin surface used as the control, an area without epithelium could be noticed, and this state subsisted during the 7 days of observation. From the 4th day, no difference could be detected between the skin surface irradiated and treated with the composition of the invention and the surrounding skin area.
In case of animals of group II, on the treated area as well as on the control area, skin injuries (vesicula, bulla) could be observed, then an area without epithelium developped. On the 7th day after the
irradiation, the area treated with the
composition of the invention was epithelized.

On the basis of the above examination it can be established that the skin surface is protected from the damaging effects of the UV-B light by the composition of the invention and the compound of the formula I, respectively. If the skin surface is
treated with the composition of the invention immediately after the irradiation, only a weak injury of the epithelium is experienced, at the most.
Skin injuries developped by UV-B
radiation are healed owing to the treatment with the composition of the invention in a shorter time than without treatment. The compound of the formula I exerts an
epithelizing effect.
Thus, a further embodiment of the invention consists of a method for reducing the ageing processes of skin and/or treating the pathological lesions of skin, said method comprising treating the affected skin surface with a cosmetically effective non-toxic amount of a hydroximic acid derivative of the formula I or a physiologically acceptable acid
addition salt thereof.
Suitably, the skin surface is treated with a cosmetic composition comprising 0.1 to 30 % by mass of a hydroximic acid
derivative of the formula I or a
physiologically acceptable acid addition salt thereof.
Preferably, the skin surface is treated with 0-( 3-piperidino-2-hydroxy-l-propyl )pyrid- -3-ylhydroximic acid chloride or
0-( 3-piperidino-2-hydroxy-1-propyl ) nicotinic amidoxi e or a physiologically acceptable acid addition salt thereof.
The invention is further elucidated by means of the following Examples.
Example 1
Cream (oil/water)
The cream consists of the following
ingredients:
compound "A" 4.0 % by mass cetylstearyl alcohol 7.5 % by mass stearic acid 9.0 % by mass glycerol monostearate 2.0 % by mass sodium lauryl sulfate 0.5 % by mass methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.1 % by mass distilled water 76.9 % by mass

100.0 % by mass The lipophilic ingredients (cetylstearyl alcohol, stearic acid and glycerol monostearate) are melted on a water-bath. The sodium lauryl sulfate and methyl p-hydroxybenzoate are dissolved in about 38 ml of distilled water at 60 to 65 °C, the pH of the solution is adjusted by the addition of diluted aqueous sodium hydroxide solution to a value of 9 to 10, then the aqueous solution is admixed to the mixture of the lipophilic ingredients, and the emulsion obtained is stirred until cold. The active ingredient is dissolved in the remaining water and the solution is admixed to the cooled cream.
Example 2
Cream (water/oil)
The cream consists of the following
ingredients :
compound "A" 5.0 % by mass cetylstearyl alcohol 10.0 % by mass white wax 10.0 % by mass neutral oil 35.0 % by mass

Imwitor(R) 780 K (partial
glycerides of vegetable
fatty acids) 5.0 % by mass ethyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.1 % by mass distilled water 34.9 % by mass

100.0 % by mass The ingredients are blended using the method described in Example 1.
Example 3
Cream (water/oil)
The cream consists of the following
ingredients:
compound "A" 5.0 % by mass cetylstearyl alcohol 1.5 % by mass white wax 1.5 % by mass lanalcol 2.5 % by mass cholesterol 1.0 % by mass white vaseline 43.5 % by mass sodium tetraborate 2.0 % by mass methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.1 % by mass distilled water 42.9 % by mass

100.0 % by mass The ingredients are blended using the method described in Example 1.
Example 4
Moisturizing cream for night
The cream consisting of the following ingredients is prepared using the method described in Example 1:
compound "B" 5.0 % by mass cetyl alcohol 5.0 % by mass lanolin (anhydrous) 5.0 % by mass cocoa-butter 5.0 % by mass vaseline 5.0 % by mass vaseline oil 5.0 % by mass isopropyl miristate 1.0 % by mass isopropyl palmitate 1.0 % by mass wheat-germ oil 10.0 % by mass evening primrose oil 5.0 % by mass vitamin A 0.03% by mass vitamin E 0.05% by mass glycerol 5.0 % by mass propylene glycol 5.0 % by mass methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.2 % by mass perfume 0.1 % by mass water, demineralized 42.62% by mass

100.00% by mass

Example 5
Moisturizing cream for day
The cream consisting of the following ingredients is prepared by the method described in Example 1.
compound "B" 5.0 % by mass cetyl alcohol 5.0 % by mass lanolin (anhydrous) 5.0 % by mass vaseline 5.0 % by mass vaseline oil 5.0 % by mass isopropyl miristate 1.0 % by mass isopropyl palmitate 1.0 % by mass borage oil 4.0 % by mass peanut oil 11.0 % by mass vitamin A 0.03% by mass vitamin E 0.05% by mass glycerol 5.0 % by mass propylene glycol 5.0 % by mass methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.2 % by mass perfume 0.1 % by mass water, demineralized 47.62 % by mass

100.00% by mass

Example 6
Body milk
The body milk consisting of the following ingredients is prepared by the method described in Example 1.
compound "B" 4.0 % by mass stearic acid monoglyceride 2.0 % by mass cetylstearyl alcohol 2.0 % by mass peanut oil 5.0 % by mass vaseline oil 3.0 % by mass polyoxyethylene cetylstearyl
alcohol (degree of polymerization: 20) 2.0 % by mass glycerol 4.0 % by mass methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.2 % by mass propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.1 % by mass butylhydroxytoluene 0.01% by mass water, demineralized 77.69% by mass

100.00% by mass